Reflection in the snow covered hills

(Ref: title of post:) When life gives you Fleetwood Mac, you take it all in and let it float for a couple of days. Or in this/my case: years. Snowy eyes all morning, white fingers and light feet. To give you a perspective of my life this last part of 2014; at school I have been assigned to shape a housing situation for a collective with 20 individuals, six humans and fourteen goats. It’s an excellent assignment and I’m solving it as beautiful as I ever could (considering I’m a first year architecture student of course): with concrete and geometry. I’ve seen a lot of horror movies and sold clothes that I’ve worked out my way out of – it’s like life is taking a new turn for every garment that disappears (and comes) and that my life is split into these garments like horcruxes. Not that I die with every separation, but the feeling of change is undeniable. I hope you are all having an excellent early winter. I can say I am.

Zóna Indusztriála lll by VNP galériák

Zóna Indusztriála lll by VNP galériák

Konrad, Rick Owens MOODY F/W 2014, by Rick Owens

Konrad, Rick Owens MOODY F/W 2014, by Rick Owens

Flickr: _nzw_

Flickr: _nzw_

(Sept)

Venice. A truly beautiful city, so picturesque it’s almost a little too much at times – flooded with Western tourists (and the occasional Arabic oil sheik daddy in beautiful kendoras looking better than all the Americans and Europeans of the city combined). I’ll never go back, but I’m glad to have seen the city of the sea resting solely on oaken pillars. September in Italy was warm and all I wore were single layers of Rick Owens while running around drinking water and consuming disgusting amounts of pizza. The purpose of the visit was to experience the biannual Venice architecture exhibition which this year disappointed me greatly. It’s no government secret that I’m not a Rem Koolhaas fan, but his thematic focus on elements this year did not interest me at all. Highlights of the biennale: The Norwegian pavilion by Sverre Fehn (just the pavilion itself, the exhibition was just as embarrassing for me as a Norwegian as I had been told) – and the exhibition of the Danish pavilion – which had a poetic approach to an aesthetic, represented by the tactile and sensual feelings of the boreal forest, which I loved. Maybe it was the scent of fresh pine or the soft feeling of stepping on pine needles or a pathetic desire to see and feel something familiar.

Photo: Danny Nhat

PFW SS 2015

So far, I’ve found great pleasure in a lot from Paris the last few days. In short I must say I’m very interested in seeing the turn of Rick Owens (from making crazy shows to the focus back on clothing but keeping his Adidas-moneymachine-collab going (which I absolutely despise)) and his sewn prints among with the fabric experimenting in the vest in look 5. Demeulemeester was a disaster shoe-wise but for me I loved the dry layering. A lot of very wearable jackets and shirts. Yamamoto was these two looks for me. I can’t help but liking his women’s collections so much more than his men’s work. Julius has turned into becoming one of my top shows and even though the styling was tacky as usual the shoes and boots were great. Loads of great jackets and lengths. Very fond of Nakamura’s work. All in all this far a solid fashion week from Paris. All images from NowFashion.com and TheImpression.com.

 

Rick Owens FAUN Grayzine copy

Rick Owens FAUN

 

Ann Demeulemeester SS 2015

Ann Demeulemeester

YY SS 2015

Yohji Yamamoto

Julius SS 2015

Julius

Men in skirts

Jeg har helt ærlig aldri helt skjønt problemet. Mange opplever det kanskje stressende når kjønnsnormeringen omrokkeres og fallossymbolet, mannen, går i skjørt eller kjoler. På grunn av mugne forestillinger om kvinner som objekter på utstilling har kvinner heldigvis fått større valgmuligheter hva gjelder bekledning – spesielt i mer formelle sammenhenger – mens menn er låst til den grusomme dressen. Jeg hater å bruke dress. Håper at når jeg selv er moden nok, skal kunne arkivere den delen av garderoben og kan begynne å bruke det jeg har av skjørt og kjoler (som i det minste utelukkende for komfortens del er av en annen verden hva gjelder bevegelse og luftighet). Mange kaller det også gender bending, noe som provoserer meg noe voldsomt. Det er ikke slik at kuken min forvandles til en vagina, uansett hvor mye jeg bruker skjørt eller kjoler. I mellomtiden drømmer jeg om en ny, mer nyansert verden der klær fratas kjønnsbetegnelser.

I’ve honestly never understood the huge problem with men wearing skirts and dresses. Some parts of the masses might find it stressful to see people of a gender wearing untraditional garments – and maybe most of all when the phallos symbol – the man – is put in a womens’ garment. Because of moldy views in which women is still being seen as objects and eye candy they have (luckily) gotten more diversity in what they can wear in general, especially when attending ‘formal’ occasions – while the men are locked to wearing the terrible suit. I absolutely hate being put in situations where I ought to wear a suit, and I hope that I soon will mature enough both as a person and also the society around me, to archive that part of the wardrobe and start using my dresses and skirts (if not only because of the comfort is out of this world compared to the straitjacket-like situation I feel when wearing a classic suit). Some people call or classify this as gender bending, which provokes me a lot. What ever people might believe, my cock does not reduce size or evolve into a vagina when or if I am wearing a dress or a skirt. Meanwhile I’m dreaming of a new, more nuanced world and to one day destroy the idea that clothing has gender. 

Photos by Mark Seliger From Rolling Stone 1999

Brad Pitt by Mark Seliger
From Rolling Stone 1999

Rick Owens ISLAND S/S 2013

Rick Owens ISLAND
S/S 2013

Rick Owens NASKA S/S 2012

Rick Owens NASKA
S/S 2012

 

Nirvana in Dries Van Noten From Mademoiselle Magazine November 1993

Nirvana in Dries Van Noten
From Mademoiselle Magazine
November 1993

PFW Women’s vol. 1

Mildt sagt meget fornøyd med visningene i Paris. Sterke kvinnekolleksjoner fra flere denne sesongen. Ann Demeulemeester hadde sin siste ordentlige visning der hun selv er hoveddesigner. Ganske vemodig, på tross av folks spekulasjoner i hvor mye hun har gjort selv i de siste kolleksjonene. Denne synes jeg i alle fall var en fabelaktig avslutning – og selv om jeg synes at arbeidet i herreklærne ikke reflekterte hva jeg selv intuitivt assosierer med Demeulemeester som (veldig sterk herreklær-)designer synes jeg kvinneklærne veide opp. Dessuten skal det mye til for å heve standarden hva gjelder vinterkolleksjoner til herre (les: 2011).

This season I’m very glad to see that almost everything that has been shown in Paris this year had such a great level of quality. Ann Demeulemeester had her last show as main designer for her brand, and this collection was a tribute, if I may, to herself. A spectacular season, even though I did not find enough of her essence in the men’s clothes.

DEMEUL

Også Rick Owens gjorde en usedvanlig god kvinnesesong i år. Kanskje nesten bedre enn herrekolleksjonen. Modellene er en blanding av modellfavoritter og arbeidsstaben hans, noe jeg synes fungerte helt ypperlig (satt faktisk og klappet i hendene mens jeg så kolleksjonen). Alt for få designere har en slik nærhet til arbeidet sitt – i alle fall som fungerer. Skoene var faen så fine – og jeg begynner å få lyst på den jumpsuiten. I krokodilleskinn.

Rick Owens have also had a good year. Women’s MOODY might even be better than his men’s collection. The fact that the models is a mix between his (real) model favourites and his crew and staff worked so good for personalising the collection (I was practically clapping through the whole thing). I find way too few designers having this close relation to their work, at least a connection that works well. The shoes astonished me and I’m beginning to like that crocodile leather jumpsuit.

MOODY

All photos:
Regis Colin Berthelier

Flandern

Midt på natten i forrige uke dro jeg til Antwerpen. Jeg så en helt fantastisk by jeg vil tilbake til. Her er noen bilder.

In the middle of the night last week I left for Antwerp. I experienced a fantastic city I want to go back to. Here are some pictures. 

ANT1 ANT2

Naturligvis måtte jeg innom Ann Demeulemeester. Først: en av de fineste butikkene jeg har vært i, veldig trivelig crew og en sterk lukt av røkelse jeg fortsatt drømmer om. Så fikk jeg også snakket litt med en av de ansatte som fortalte at visningen i Paris om noen uker blir noe å se veldig frem i mot. Utrolig spent.

Of course I had to pay Ann Demeulemeester a visit. First I have to say it might be if not the, then at least one of the most beautiful stores I have ever visited, with also a very kind crew and a strong scent of incense in which I still dream of. I also got to speak to one of them about her tribute show in Paris in a few weeks which will be something to look very forward to. I’m incredibly curious of what’ll come.

ANT3(Boris Bidjan Saberi wool vest, Rick Owens leggings, Julius_7 boots and Rick Owens dustbag)

ANT4 Jeg fikk også besøke Cedric Jaquemyns atelier (bildet over og de to under) og arbeidsplass og jeg fikk se hans siste kolleksjon som ble vist i Paris for en måned siden (jeg la ut et par bilder her). Jeg ville ha stort sett alt i utgangspunktet, men å få klå og kjenne materialene mellom fingrene var helt rått. Fikk også fortalt om ulike arbeidskrevende prosesser, for eksempel er jakken på bildet over laget av lammeskinnsremser som er flettet sammen én og én og deretter sydd sammen (for hånd). Jakken og en større del av kolleksjonen vil bli tilgjengelig på bl.a. Darklands i Berlin. Cedric er også utrolig karismatisk og en fyr jeg gleder meg til å se mer av fremover.

I also got to pay Cedric Jaquemyn‘s atelier a visit (see the picture over and the two below) and work space and I got to see his latest collection shown in Paris a month ago. I wanted most of it in the first place but to witness the garments first hand was amazing. I also got to know his methods of making the different garments of the collection. The jacket on the picture over was made by hand braiding lambskin one by one and then sewing them together by hand. The jacket and and a lot of the collection will be available at Darklands in Berlin. Looking a lot forward to seeing more from Cedric, the fashion world needs more charismatic guys like him. 

ANT5-1 ANT5ANT8Young boy on his death bed (av Matthijs van den Bergh), olje på panel. Fra samlingen i Rubens hus. Kan varmt anbefales.

Young boy on his death bed (Matthijs van den Bergh), oil on panel. From the Rubens house (which I’d highly recommend). 

With the high infant mortality, parents often did not have the chance to have their child pose for a portrait in life. In that case there was always the option of commissioning a portrait after the child’s death. The child in this portrait is probably a boy, given the length of the hair. In his right hand he is holding a branch of laurel to protect him from evil spirits, while his left hand clutches a flower. Individual cut flower buds symbolised an early death, and the image was used in poetry of the period as well as painting.

http://www.rubenshuis.be/

ANT6Disse to bildene er fra en svipptur til Brussel (som jeg ikke likte halvparten så godt som Antwerpen) som ble mest preget av at lite søvn, begynnende gnagsår og mye turister, men også storslagen gotisk arkitektur og hyggelige cafeer.

These two pictures are from a short trip to Brussels (which as a city I didn’t like half as good as Antwerp) that were colored from sleep deprivation, starting blisters and loads of tourists – but also spectacular gothic architecture and nice cafes.

(For the curious: I’m dressed in an Obscur leather jacket and everything else is Rick Owens)ANT7

PFW (until) JAN 17

Selv om Oslo har nå har fått et slikt vær som til en viss grad påvirker hvor seriøst jeg tar uttrykket ‘FALL/WINTER’ i sentraleuropeisk (eller i denne sammenheng også japansk)-designer-forstand har det oppriktig gledet meg hva jeg har sett fra Paris til nå. Mine personlige favoritter hittil (17. januar) har jeg oppsummert her:

I can’t neglect the fact that the weather in Oslo right now affects how serious I look at the whole expression ‘FALL/WINTER’ in the sense of a central-European (or in this case both American and Japanese) designer, but despite that I must say I am tremendously satisfied with what I’ve seen from Paris until now (Jan. 17th). My personal favorites are mentioned here:

Boris Bidjan Saberi
Synes det er interessant hvordan han har liksom sivilisert seg litt (kanskje til det negative?),  der målmannen/gruppen har forandret seg fra den nomadiske mannen fra midtøsten som med perfekt passform på drapert jersey i delikate fargenyanser har en naturlig og litt jordnær aura til det som skjedde her; noe nesten bysantisk (som i denne sammenhengen betyr: hva jeg hadde sett for meg Vladimir Tepes rusle rundt i mens han handlet dagligvarer), hardere, mer kynisk og sivilisert. Den markante utviklingen er veldig fin, men jeg vet ikke om det tiltaler meg på riktig måte. Uansett synes jeg dette var en jævlig fin kolleksjon. Boris på sitt beste, på en annen måte enn før.

I think it’s very interesting how Saberi somehow has matured and evolved his view of his ideal man/group from the nomadic man of the Middle East which his perfectly fitted draped jersey in delicate color nuances with a natural and earthy aura – to an almost Byzantic (in this case Byzantic means what I imagine Vladimir Tepes would wear and look like while grocery shopping), harder, colder and civilized feel. This very distinct development is very pretty, but I don’t know if it communicates with me in the right way. Anyway I think this is a damn good collection. Boris at his best, but different.

BBS

Photos: Gio Staiano

Julius (Tatsuro Horikawa)
Har en tendens til å overdetaljere, (og stylingen har som enkelte ganger før tendens til å redusere litt av totalinntrykket) – men denne visningen traff meg veldig i hjertet. Horikawa har gjort det igjen, uten å endre eller forandre så mye, men mer ved å videreutvikle et formspråk som tiltaler en estetikk jeg alltid har vært svært tiltrukket av. Herlig klumpete boots, lange slikkende draperte plagg og perfekte lengder på samtlige overdeler. Veldig, veldig fin kolleksjon.

Horikawas tendency of putting too much detail into his designs (and the some times poor styling which like this and some times before has reduced some of the total impression of the collection), but this time I fell in love with it. Horikawa has done it again – without changing, but by developing a language that speaks to an aesthetic I have always felt very attracted to. The wonderful clumpy boots, long draped garments and perfect lengths on every single piece. A very, very good show.

J

Photos: Etienne Tordoir

 

Rick Owens (MOODY)
Som ventet. Owens har uttalt seg i flere intervjuer etter fjorårets visninger (der fokus for mange i større grad var på det amerikanske steppeteamet og deres kropper (W) og det estiske bandet Winny Puhh som spilte fra wire opp ned i taket under visningen (M)) at neste sesong skulle få et økt fokus på klærne igjen. Inntrykksmessig er dette den desidert mest behagelige kolleksjonen øynene mine har falt på i år, med nye plagg, snitt, farger (han har brukt en helt slående vakker brunfarge denne sesongen) og – til min store begeistring: rene overflater. Doo-ragsene hadde vært fine om de ikke hadde vært transparante (liker nonne-assosiasjonen bedre), og jeg har et elsk/hat forhold til skoene (fantastiske, men ikke femsifret beløp-fantastiske, som jeg anslår så mye skinn kommer til å komme på. Ahh. Veldig fornøyd med Rick Owens igjen.

As expected. I’ve heard Owens explaining several times that after last years shows (where the focus disappeared from the clothes to the American step dance teams and their bodies (W) and the Estonian band Winny Puhh that played from a wire in the roof upside down) he was putting more effort into the clothes again. This collection is by far the most comfortable one of all the mens PFW ones to watch. New garments, cuts, colors (I mean, the brown is almost so beautiful I’d buy something in it (almost)) and best of all: the garments are all very clean-looking. I would like the doo-rags if they weren’t transparent (I’m more fond of the nun feeling than the hip hop thing) and I have this love/hate relationship when it comes to the re-evolved elephant boots (originally from CRUST F/W 2009) – love because I think they’re absolutely fantastic, hate because I know several reasons not to spend $2000 on a pair of boots. Ahh, I’m so happy to see this show from Rick Owens, he’s done it for me. Again.

RO

Photos: Regis Colin Berthelier

 

Darkdust

taka mayumi5taka mayumi 1 taka mayumi2 taka mayumi3

taka mayumi4

Photos: Taka Mayumi
Model: Rory O’Hara

Rory er favoritten min av Ricks håndplukkede modeller – som blant mange av de andre jobber de også sammen med ham på ulike plattformer i Owenscorp. Denne serien har inspirert meg så mye. Klær fra Rick’s LIMO F/W 2011-kolleksjon.

Rory is my favorite of Ricks hand picked models (which also works together in different areas of Owenscorp) and I keep being inspired by this editorial shot with the LIMO collection of F/W 2011 again and again.

365/365

2013 har vært et bra år for meg, et selvrealiserende år jeg har måttet stole på min egen intiusjon og hvor det har gått bra. Jeg har blitt forlovet, flyttet til Ila i Oslo, ikke klippet håret, nesten ikke tatt bilder, badet en del, lært meg å sy, blitt kvitt den verste katteangsten og vært i utlandet et par ganger. I morgen, 1/365, er det et tabula rasa/katarsis for enkelte – men jeg har kun satt meg tre mål: (fortsette å) ikke drikke alkohol, reise til Island og gå opp fem kilo i muskelmasse. Her er litt av året mitt i bilder:

2013 has been a decent year for me, a year where I’ve been left to trust my own intuition and it has led me to good things. I’ve gotten engaged, moved to Ila (in Oslo), letting my hair grow, nearly touched my cameras at all, taken a lot of baths, learned how to sew, gotten rid of my worst fear of cats and been abroad a couple of times. Tomorrow, 1/365, is a tabula rasa/catharsis for some, but I’ve only made three goals: (continue to) not drink alcohol, go to Iceland and gain five kilos of muscle mass. Here are parts of my year in pictures:

20134 copy2000111¨ 201344420131

20133

Photos: private